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Monthly Archives: December 2009


Gourmet Underground Detroit's content archives are organized by date and catalog the aggregated content of our Features pages as well as our blog.

A Night with Friends

Around lunch time yesterday, I got a call from my friend Steve who put forth the idea of getting together at his place for dinner. So Suz and I drove down and dined with his family, gnoshing on some great braised lamb shanks and drinking quite a bit of wine together in the process.

We started with 2006 Bourgogne “Le Chapitre” from Rene Bouvier, which was a colorful, pleasant surprise of sweet cherry, exceeding what one might expect from a bourgogne rouge.

Next, we tried a 1998 Chinon “Beaumont” from Catherine & Pierre Breton, a favorite producer of Loire Valley cab franc of those of us at Swigs — and certainly a favorite of our host for the evening. So I brought this along, hoping it’d meet our expectations, which were quite lofty given the wine’s age and our mutual adoration. It was, I thought, a marvel. How many twenty-something dollar cab francs retain fruit for 11 years? The nose was leathery and acidic at the same time — Steve’s wife thought it had an aroma of olives — and it was loaded with fruit, rough leather, and freshy acidity.

A 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet “Clos de la Boudriotte” VV from Vincent Girardin clearly had some brettanomyces, though this was an interesting experiment in how different people perceive different aromas and flavors. Last year, Todd, Steve, another friend, and I were drinking a beaujolais. Steve and our friend thought it reeked of sewage and animale and tasted similarly, thus rendering it undrinkable, but Todd and I thought it smelled like bubblegum and was overly sweet. This Giradin was no different: While I agreed with Steve that there was brett on the nose and palate, I was tasting more cherry and fruit and he was getting more of the barnyard qualities.

The highlight of the evening had to be Henri Gouges’ 1995 Nuits St. Georges “Les St. Georges”, a masculine but nuanced glass of wine with a lot of angularity and smoke to accent a rich, dark cherry core.

We finished the evening with a 2006 Cotes du Rosa Rhone-style blend from Joseph Swan and a 2002 Volnay from J.M. Boillot. The former was opened at the wrong time and place — it just couldn’t follow all that burgundy — but once our palates were cleaned up a bit, it was a sweet, flowery, well-balanced wine that I think would have easily belonged on the table at the right point in the evening. The Volnay was a bit weighted down with Brett as well, but otherwise was a bit of a relative — a really small-time younger cousin — to the Gouges.

Paired with good company and some braised lamb, these were part of a Wednesday night that I couldn’t have imagined to be better.
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Dinner for Two

People with birthdays between December 10th or so and New Year’s Day tend to share one minor complaint: Their emergence into this world is ignored amid the hustle and bustle of the holiday season. My wife’s birthday is in mid-December, and while we don’t really do the “present thing,” we ensure the occasion doesn’t pass unmarked. I make a dinner each year — something fun, reasonably unique or elaborate — and we have some quality drinks.

We started on some scallops with a cilantro gremolata and served over a lime beurre blanc, a recipe I found on Epicurious. With it, I mixed up and served a Captain Handsome, a cocktail created at Vessel, the bar in Seattle.

Captain Handsome
  • 1.5 oz gin
  • .5 oz lime juice
  • .5 oz creme de violette
  • .25 oz limoncello
  • Shake w/ ice and strain the drink into a chilled cocktail glass rinsed with absinthe. Garnish with a cherry.

Its lime juice base made it ideal with the lime zest in the gremolata and the citrus in the reduction used to make the beurre blanc. Vessel has a fantastic device that carbonates any drink without dilluting it. And while our version lacks the delightful prickliness of Vessel’s original, it’s an excellent, elegant drink with a nicely cohesive floral and citrus flavor that’s accented really nicely by the absinthe rinse. Doesn’t get much better, and it’s an excellent drink to showcase the Creme de Violette I’ve come to love.

For the main course, I served another recipe I found online, albeit tweaked here and there: pork stuffed with a morel-based mixture and generously drizzled with a demi-glace and morel stock-based sauce.Part of me thought a fresh Joseph Swan pinot noir, which I’ve written about here previously, would do the trick of combatting the rich morel and veal flavors, but I wanted something more refined and nuanced. I had a gut feeling that a 20-year-old burgundy I’d been holding on to would do the trick. And indeed it did.

More specifically, the wine was a 1988 premier cru from Les Vaucrains (in Nuits St. Georges), produced Robert Chevillon. It was surprisingly vibrant with plenty of berry fruit and tannin left, but the real pleasant surprise was just how well this worked with the pork: Hints of leather, game, and even a Fernet-Branca-ish herbal quality evolved as we drank through the botttle.

The meal closed with a raspberry mousse. We elected not to pair it with any specific drinks, but afterward, I gave my new bottle of Plymouth Sloe Gin a try. I made Sloe Sambas for both of us, a fruity, pink, frothy concoction that I’ve approximated from a drink of the same name made at Nopa, a San Francisco gastropub.

Sloe Samba (makes two drinks)
  • 1.5 oz white rum
  • 1.5 oz sloe gin
  • .5 oz lemon juice
  • .25 oz Scotch
  • A quick squeeze of simple syrup
  • Egg white
  • Dry shake to get a good emulsion and foam
  • Add ice, shake, and strain into a chilled glass
The Plymouth is almost indescribably superior to both other Sloe Gins I’ve tried previously: deep, plummy, berry flavored, less viscous. The lack of extra sugar lets more of the “real” flavor shine through.
Hedonism is my December watchword, my mantra really, and our first big night was a pretty solid success. Christmas? New Year’s Eve? Game on.
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A Savage Land

During the typical grim commute home I witness a hit-and-run at the intersection of Woodward Ave. and 12 Mile Road. A cargo van plows over a minivan and then upon swift egress swipes an SUV. I am too far back to get a license plate number and although I want to chase the fiend down, the two cars ahead of me feel obligated to crawl along and stare at an incredulous old man as he inspects what remains of his vehicle’s rear. Shattered plastic litters the road.

The scene plays out in my mind over and over again, only I am the incredulous old man and there is beloved human cargo in the seat next to me. I attempt to shed these thoughts at the library. Fortunately, it is Audra’s violin lesson night – a.k.a. pints at Berkley Front that is next door to the music place night – and midway through a glass of Two Hearted Ale on the hand pull I begin to think of other things slightly less miserable.

After violin lessons I perk up in anticipation of the near perfect guacamole that I know is waiting for me at home. We stop at Trader Joe’s for corn chips and peppermint bark. I pick up a bottle of Real Tesoro Amontillado sherry for $5 thinking that the worst thing that can happen is that I will now have a bottle of cooking sherry in my fridge.

I now have a bottle of cooking sherry in my fridge. It seems that grace escapes me.

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The Walnut Experiment: Trial #2

Day two. Trial two.

I added another half ounce to the previous night’s first drink, which means the final recipe is:

  • 1.5 oz bourbon
  • 1 oz nocino
  • .5 oz amaretto

One still gets the sweet almond nose from the amaretto, but the drink itself is even more balanced, and there’s a bit more walnut flavor on the finish. It’s a rich, boozy cocktail to be sure, but on a winter night with a stack of work and a series of episodes of 30 Rock queued up in Netflix, it seemed hard to beat.

Now it needs a name. Suggestions?

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The Walnut Experiment: Trial #1

Last week, a friend lent me a bottle of Aggazzotti Nocino Reserva Notte di San Giovanni, a walnut liqueur from Italy. Described by a favorite wine shop, Chambers Street Wine, as “a perfect ending to your thanksgiving,” it’s a rich, viscous spirit — thoroughly nutty and bittersweet. My self-appointed assignment is to determine some viable uses for it beyond that of a digestif to be served on its own.

So tonight, I mixed up a couple of cocktails that make use of this nocino as an accent ingredient. The results aren’t perfect, but they’re promising.

Drink 1

  • 1.5 oz Bourbon (I used Evan Williams Single Barrel)
  • .5 oz Nocino
  • .5 Amaretto (I used Luxardo)

Drink 2

  • 1.5 oz Bourbon
  • .5 oz lemon juice
  • .5 oz Nocino
  • .25 marascino

Aromatically, the first was dominated by the amaretto, but otherwise, it was largely well-integrated with sweet, nutty flavors that coat the inside of the mouth. The second was well-balanced, but the maraschino might have been unnecessary. The drink tastes mostly like a whiskey sour until the finish, at which point the nuts of the Nocino sits in the throat and lingers. More importantly, it looked like mud. And not sexy bath house mud. Nasty house-destroying mudslide mud. So the second probably won’t be appearing at any Manhattan hot spots anytime soon.

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How Easily Can One Speak After a Visit to The Gibson?

Among the traditions associated (for some) with Thanksgiving, the one that annoys me the most is the notion of forcing each of those seated around a well-provisioned table to recount a single thing for which a person is thankful. It’s not that being grateful or demonstrating appreciation are offensive sentiments. But to my mind, being goaded into a sappy public display is, no matter the intent, irritating, boring, and dare I say contrived.

So in lieu of that particular custom, I shall instead confess to the public some of the things for which I am thankful in the most privately publicm, egomaniacal fashion of them all — a blog post.

This year, my wife and I set sail — or more accurately, boarded a flight — bound for Baltimore in order to visit family. The day before Thanksgiving, we were to meet up with our good friends who live near DC, my brother, and his fiancée for dinner and drinks. After doing some research and consulting the natives, we elected to dine at Masa 14, an inexpensive Latin+Japanese fusion place that serves small plates, and to drink at The Gibson, a speakeasy-style joint down the block which nearly always requires reservations to get past the doorman.

Dinner was wonderful — I particularly enjoyed the yucca fries, the pork belly “tacos,” some mussels, and some of their flatbreads — but this is a drinks blog, and we’re more than mere casual drinkers, so let’s focus our attention on The Gibson, shall we?


During Prohibition, I’m sure it would have taken quite a bit to gain entrance to The Gibson. Knowing the proprietor, perhaps. Knowing a codeword, probably. But today, we have Google. Following the recent trend of modeling sophisticated watering holes after the speakeasys of yesteryear, this establishment is virtually invisible from 14th Street NW. Only a single light bulb, a single doorknob, and a single door buzzer sandwiched between two other businesses alert you that there might be life inside the otherwise decrepit-looking building. But after perusing reviews on Yelp, we were on the phone to The Gibson, making reservations.

Once we were done with dinner and wandered up the street to that barely lit entrance, we headed in, initially greeted by a young potbellied man dressed in all black, his face adorned with mutton chops that threatened to engulf his face. He led us through a second door to a dimly lit, beautifully decorated room. Standing isn’t allowed — the bar has 48 chairs, and if you’re not in one of them, you’re not in the bar — and half the tables are set aside for those who call in advance to make reservations.

We took our seats, looked over the menus, and ordered some damn fine drinks.

Among our more memorable drinks were a Blue Blood (Laphroaig 10-Year Single Malt, Leopold Bros Tart Cherry Liqueur, Grand Marnier, and Dolin Dry Vermouth), a Bittered Rye Sling (Old Overholt Rye, bitters, lime, Dolin sweet vermouth, and Fever Tree ginger ale), and a Brunswick Sour (Appleton white rum and lime juice with merlot floated on top).

My brother’s fiancee described the Blue Blood as “feet wrapped in bacon.” Sounds ideal to me, and indeed it is: The smoky flavor from the scotch certainly dominates the drink, but it’s made balanced by the tart cherry and orange. My personal favorite, though, was the Bittered Rye Sling I ordered. Tart, drinkable, and surprisingly aromatic, it was served in a Collins glass and garnished with a cherry and a lemon twist.

The waitstaff was pleasant and felt comfortable questioning odd orders, hoping to save both him and us from having to deal with a drink that didn’t match up to our party’s tastes. The Brunswick Sour and a few others were recommendations of his throughout the evening, and he did well. And of course, the drinks were absolutely delicious.

Atmosphere is a focal point for The Gibson: Beautifully stained wood is accented with regal reds and golds on cieling inlays, and red velvet covers the back of the bench seating. Orange peel garnishes were brought to the table and, when squeezed, lit on fire for every drink. Showmanship is fun, but on more than one occasion, we sat waiting awkwardly for a minute while our waiter tried to flame the peel. And truth be told, our second round came a bit late in the evening because of the slow pace of service.

Nonetheless, The Gibson was a great drink experience. It would be easy to over-consume there: The bartenders are the real asset at this establishment as the drinks were universally well-made. Even the strongest, booziest cocktails were eminantly drinkable. And prices were fair and reasonable. If driving 50 minutes back to Baltimore hadn’t been a concern, I would have been joyfully slurring and stumbling my way out of The Gibson as my mutton-chopped doorman friend booted my ass to the curb at closing time. If you’re in DC, you owe yourself a trip.

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Poem for a Dollar

Besides a crappy fast food burger what does one dollar get you nowadays? Not much. Or so we thought.

For a single dead president Tom Laverty wrote this fine poem born from a few subjects that we offered.

I drop the cork and leave the line running
against a birch branch; misinformed
about the day’s light, my last worm hanging
from the lip of the river
where if anything makes sense
I will pull a cold fish
from forest’s vein and bring it to life
in a cast iron pan.

Read the rest at Dollar Poems and order one for yourself.

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