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Monthly Archives: April 2008


Gourmet Underground Detroit's content archives are organized by date and catalog the aggregated content of our Features pages as well as our blog.

2006 Château la Carizière Muscadet

The inner-ring suburban Detroit neighborhood where I live is full of commotion. Robins struggle for territory. Children play ball on the sidewalks even as Tigers battle Indians on living room televisions. Crocus and daffodil blossoms do their finest impersonations of the sun. It is an epic scene.

This is a neighborhood dominated by 20s era foursquares and bungalows. A neighborhood of porches and young couples sipping drinks in spring’s evening glow. Drinks like Joseph Landron’s organic 2006 Château la Carizière Muscadet.

A pale yellow glassful sits on the ledge next to my crossed feet and mere yards from the traffic of historic Woodward Avenue. A deep whiff carries the scents of white flowers, apple, lemon and polished river stones. A sip is all tart, yellow fruit, slightly briny, and finishing with the drawn taste of flaky rocks. Impossibly loud birdsong fills the sky. Trees blush red and green. Muscadet drinks like spring air.

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Anatomy of a Pisco Sour

The Brazilian Caipirinha and Cuban Mojito are the darlings of today’s cocktail scene. We like them both, particularly now that our side of the Earth is tilting closer to the sun. But the Mojito can be a chore to make and the Caipirinha’s simplicity tends to grow tedious. That’s when we turn to a Pisco Sour. With straightforward preparation and intensity from ingredients a little more exotic than usual, it’s bound to be the next big thing. Here’s how we make one:

• 2 ounces Pisco

Pisco is a brandy distilled from grapes grown in wine producing regions of Chile and Peru. In fact, both Chile and Peru claim it as their national drink. We don’t bother taking a side in the debate as long as the booze keeps flowing.

Chilean Pisco Capel is our brand of choice for the Pisco Sour. As cocktail base liquor it is remarkably smooth and the degree of alcohol is just apparent. Also Chilean, Alto del Carmen is slightly more refined and good for straight sipping if you sometimes take your drinks that way. Both are marked by pleasing aromas of gently caramelized sugars, tropical fruits and wetland vegetation.

• 1 ounce lemon/lime juice

Ignore juice sold inside plastic fruit reproductions. There is no substitute for fresh squeezed – period. We have found recipes that call for lemons as the citrus component of a Pisco Sour and at least as many prescribing limes. Our compromise is to use both. Since we almost always mix for two it’s our luck that one average lemon and one average lime usually produce around two ounces. Don’t sweat it if you’re off a quarter ounce either way. This is not science. It’s alchemy.

• ½ ounce simple syrup

To ensure granulated sugar is integrated into your cocktail make it into simple syrup. Put one cup water and one cup sugar into a saucepan over flame. When the sugar is dissolved and the liquid just begins to bubble around the edges take off the heat and let cool. That’s simple syrup. Store what you don’t use in a jar in the fridge. In theory it keeps for a week. In practice it keeps for two or more.

• Dash Angostura bitters

Like all the best herbal tonics and mixes Angostura bitters began life as a snake oil treatment for fatigue and stomach ailments. Created in Venezuela it is made from a proprietary blend of tropical herbs, plant extracts and spices and adds zing to Pisco Sours, Pink Gins and Manhattans. Technically, Amargo bitters should be added, but since they are nearly impossible to find in the United States, Angostura offers a reasonable substitute. Bakers and chemists will want to know a dash is equivalent to ¼ teaspoon. Strict adherence to the measure is pointless when you’re pouring from a dasher bottle. Trust your taste.

• Dollop egg white

No kidding. Enthusiastically shaken egg white will develop a lovely froth on top of the cocktail adding another dimension of elegance. Ask anyone that spent their youth sipping an Orange Julius while loitering in the local shopping mall. Again, since we mix for two, one whole egg white does the trick. You’ll find egg white in most cocktails with names ending in Fizz. Tip for drunken foodies: Plan to make some custards if you get into Pisco sours. It’s a shame to waste all those egg yolks.

• Shake with cracked ice

You should combine all ingredients in a separate container before adding them to ice to minimize ice melt. You want maximum liquid to ice contact in this part of the process. If your kitchen isn’t equipped with the modern technology to crack ice just put your cubes into the shaker and go psychotic on them with an ice pick or steak knife. One Pisco Sour is rarely enough and as tempting as it might be you should never reuse ice. Used ice is wet and not as cold and is the principal reason for watered down cocktails.

When everything is together in your shaker – we like the stainless steel three piece number consisting of a sixteen ounce tumbler, a strainer, and a strainer cap that conveniently holds exactly one ounce of liquid – shake vigorously until the cold of the tumbler hurts your hand. This is no time for theatrics. Casual fish-wristed wobbling will leave you with a patchy drink.

• Strain into chilled champagne flute or small 6-8 ounce wine tasting glass.

Don’t waste all your energy cracking ice if you’re going to pour your drink into a warm glass. Part of the vibe of a tasty cocktail is its many levels of chill. Five to ten minutes rest in the freezer is sufficient to cool a glass so it won’t alter the temperature of the icy cold liquid. When pouring for two it’s considered bad form to have glasses of grossly lopsided volume and even worse pouring from an already full glass into another. It’s best to bring the full one down to level the easy way by drinking it when no one is looking. At least until you get the hang of it. Don’t worry. Considering the pace at which Pisco Sours are typically consumed this skill is mastered in no time.

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