Suz picked up some fresh blood orange juice at Western Market today, so I’ve been tinkering with it in cocktails. The results are simultaneously a bit disappointing but nonetheless quite promising…
Drink 1 – Blood Orange Whiskey Sour
I tried this drink twice, the first time using bourbon, blood orange, simple syrup, cointreau, and egg white. But in tweaking it a bit, I found I preferred this recipe:
My whiskey sours are not generally all that sour, but the first take was just way too sweet. The second blood orange take has a nice flowery balance, and while the lemon doesn’t make it sour, it dries it out nicely. Cointreau and bourbon just don’t work. Never have, never will.
Drink 2 – The Bloody Scotsman
Oddly, the ingredients really cancelled each other out. It didn’t taste like there was any whiskey in there at all, and the blood orange thinned the drink so much that there was no bitterness and just a hint of smoke from the scotch. It was good and quite drinkable — poundable, really — but not anything electric. I’d like to tinker with this some more and see what happens.
Drink 3 – The Bronx River Runs Red
Inspired by the original (and often kind of weak) Bronx Cocktail:
This is a really light, really subtle, really aromatic take on a Bronx cocktail. If you like a Bronx or any lighter drinks, you’d probably like this. That’s not to say that it’s perfect by any stretch – Campari might be an improvement over Aperol here – but this is another pretty quaffable cocktail.
I haven’t always been a fan of martinis. In fact, until recently, I pretty much thought they were terrible.
Then I had good vermouth.
At first, it was just sweet vermouth in the form of Carpano Antica Formula. That helped open up an entire world of classic cocktails. But my real education began with the entire line of Dolin vermouths, which aren’t as of yet available here in the Detroit area.
Dolin Dry is absolutely delicious on its own as an apertif. But it shines in a dry martini, that formerly dreaded drink that I’ve come to appreciate if not love. With light citrus flavors and hints of herbs de provence, it’s drier, more spicy, and more nuanced than any other dry vermouth I’ve ever tasted, and it illustrates why a classic dry martini isn’t made with a splash of vermouth and a bucket of gin as has become the fashion today.
If I had to settle for Martini & Rossi in my gin, I suppose that I’d only want a sprinkle of vermouth in my martini as well.
Fortunately, there’s Dolin.
So in my dry martinis, I’ve been working with 2 1/4 oz gin to 3/4 oz vermouth or even a half-and-half mix. Why not showcase the flavors of all the ingredients if they’re worth showcasing?
The Red Wings just won the fourth game of their first round playoff series as I was polishing off the last sip of my martini. I think I’ll have something else that features Dolin Dry to celebrate.
There’s something to fire. Something beyond the obvious needs for warmth, internal combustion, and razing medieval towns. Playing around with it is at least moderately pleasurable on its own accord, so you can imagine how we at Swigs would view the combination of playing with fire and consumable liqueurs.
Obviously, the use of heat to change the properties of our food is a key principle of cooking, and I’d always wondered how it might be applied to my drinks beyond the token flaming orange peel at a trendy cocktail bar. As it turns out, bartending guru Jamie Boudreau had adequately demonstrated the concept already through a drink he created called the Rubicon.
The Rubicon
It’s astonishing the degree to which the flame changes the flavors. The herbal qualities of the chartreuse and the rosemary remain, but they’re made more robust and meatier by the fire. The drink feels more masculine, not just because it’s crafted from every caveman’s favorite exothermic reaction but because the sweeter elements are muted and rounded off nicely.
Crossing the Rubicon is, of course, a classic cultural idiom that refers to the notion of passing the point of no return. Here’s a summary of the phrase’s history in Boudreau’s own words:
The rosemary curled in the glass reminded me of Caesar’s laurels and therefore I’ve named this libation after the famous river Caesar crossed in 49 BC after uttering the now famous words: ‘Let us go where the omens of the Gods and the crimes of our enemies summon us! THE DIE IS NOW CAST!’ It is with this action that the Roman Empire began, and western civilization as we know it.
Perhaps an unintended secondary meaning of the phrase and of the drink in this case is the fire itself. Once you know what fire can do to your food, once you know it what it can do to your chartreause, how can you not want to play with it just a little more?
People with birthdays between December 10th or so and New Year’s Day tend to share one minor complaint: Their emergence into this world is ignored amid the hustle and bustle of the holiday season. My wife’s birthday is in mid-December, and while we don’t really do the “present thing,” we ensure the occasion doesn’t pass unmarked. I make a dinner each year — something fun, reasonably unique or elaborate — and we have some quality drinks.
We started on some scallops with a cilantro gremolata and served over a lime beurre blanc, a recipe I found on Epicurious. With it, I mixed up and served a Captain Handsome, a cocktail created at Vessel, the bar in Seattle.
Its lime juice base made it ideal with the lime zest in the gremolata and the citrus in the reduction used to make the beurre blanc. Vessel has a fantastic device that carbonates any drink without dilluting it. And while our version lacks the delightful prickliness of Vessel’s original, it’s an excellent, elegant drink with a nicely cohesive floral and citrus flavor that’s accented really nicely by the absinthe rinse. Doesn’t get much better, and it’s an excellent drink to showcase the Creme de Violette I’ve come to love.
For the main course, I served another recipe I found online, albeit tweaked here and there: pork stuffed with a morel-based mixture and generously drizzled with a demi-glace and morel stock-based sauce.Part of me thought a fresh Joseph Swan pinot noir, which I’ve written about here previously, would do the trick of combatting the rich morel and veal flavors, but I wanted something more refined and nuanced. I had a gut feeling that a 20-year-old burgundy I’d been holding on to would do the trick. And indeed it did.
More specifically, the wine was a 1988 premier cru from Les Vaucrains (in Nuits St. Georges), produced Robert Chevillon. It was surprisingly vibrant with plenty of berry fruit and tannin left, but the real pleasant surprise was just how well this worked with the pork: Hints of leather, game, and even a Fernet-Branca-ish herbal quality evolved as we drank through the botttle.
The meal closed with a raspberry mousse. We elected not to pair it with any specific drinks, but afterward, I gave my new bottle of Plymouth Sloe Gin a try. I made Sloe Sambas for both of us, a fruity, pink, frothy concoction that I’ve approximated from a drink of the same name made at Nopa, a San Francisco gastropub.
I don’t know what Chazz Palminteri drinks, but tonight, I drank three variations on the same drink: The Bronx cocktail. Before I get ahead of myself, here’s the basic recipe:
The Bronx Cocktail
The first of the evening was courtesy of The Forest Grill in Birmingham, Michigan. Served to me on the rocks with an orange wedge, it was, in a word, weak. I don’t know if the juice was simply out of a fountain spray nozzle, if it was from watery oranges, and/or if he used too much OJ, but the ice didn’t really help matters as it melted. Anxious to save the fleeting flavor from its ostensibly inevitable watery grave, I consumed the rest in short order.
Arriving home a few hours later, I decided to make one myself, using the recipe above. But as I opened my fridge to fetch the vermouth, I realized I had both Stock and Carpano Antica on hand. Generally, Carpano Antica makes any drink better — but I thought it wouldn’t really be fair to compare a restaurant drink using well vermouth to something more precious than an autographed nude photo of Natalie Portman. So I constructed one drink using Stock and one with the Antica.
And to be honest, I’m not sure which I preferred. Initially, the sweet, somewhat flabbby orange juice seemed to clash with the herbs in the Antica, whereas the similar sweet, somewhat flabby Stock just melded nicely with the rest of the drink. But 20 minutes into the Carpano-laced drink, I noticed that I rather enjoyed the herbs and orange together. Perhaps the drift toward room temperature had an effect. Perhaps I just got used to it. Perhaps it doesn’t matter.
Regardless, the homemade Bronx proved to be what it always ought to be: a fairly sweet but never cloying orange cocktail that puts many others to shame. Do yourself a favor: Put away the vodka and peach schnapps. Forget that Fuzzy Navel or Screwdriver or Hairy Fuzzy Navel or whatever the kids call it these days. Make yourself a Bronx instead.
Several days ago, I had a discussion about a recipe for the “classic” sweet martini made with gin, sweet vermouth, and orange bitters. A friend had a poor experience with the cocktail, and I asked what gin and vermouth he used. In that case, all that was available was Tanqueray and Stock, both fine products that I use regularly — but never together. The gin has too much juniper and not enough nuance in the vermouth to stand up to it.
The Bijou
Luxardo Maraschino liqueur is still made according to the original formula developed by Girolamo Luxardo in 1821. European marasca cherries from Luxardo’s own orchards are crushed with their pits, distilled and aged for two years in ash wood vats. After a dose of cane sugar, the finished product is sweet, with the flavor of cherries and hints of bitter almond. Serve straight with a twist of lemon as a digestif — a serving option not recommended with most of today’s shallow, artificially flavored liqueurs. Or try one of these invigorating classic cocktails: