Gamay is a house favorite grape at Swigs. Clos du Tue-Boeuf makes some fine examples that showcase Loire mineral character, often in the form of what Todd has long characterized as peanut shell or wet chalkboard.
In 2008, one can count among those delicious wines “La Butte.” Modest in alcohol content, it’s light-bodied but nonetheless loaded with flavor. It reeks of mixed berries, cinnamon, and even hints of juniper and roasted coriander seed. Dry and tart, there’s a lot of natural fermented fruit flavors on the palate including a long, lingering blueberry or currant tartness. That dash of sour and a bit of astringency continue for quite a while — long enough, at least, to tap out a few sentences on a drinks blog.
Unpacking the car in the humidity was sticky work. The damp air made me think of wine. The cabin was dark and cool with a poured cement floor and a small countertop we covered with food and drinks. Dinner would be roasted whole chickens and garden fresh pesto but not before a paddle across the deep blue water of Devoe Lake and into a backwater choked with lily. The backwater ended at a portage to the river proper where startled trout shot like squat arrows upstream beneath the canoes. The trout made me think of wine.
Before we reached the shelter of the cedar bank behind our cabin, four thirsty doe emerged from the woods. They drank and watched us paddle toward them and then leapt back into the woods when we were close enough. We grounded the canoes for the night. I rinsed my sweaty face in the cold water of the Rifle River and ascended the bank to eat.
A bottle of Cascina degli Ulivi Monferrato Nibio was opened while the pasta boiled on a camp stove. Though the sun had fallen behind the high birch that surrounded the cabin the air was still thick with heat. The Nibio knew no better. It could be thick too, thick with grapes and a sweetness that wasn’t really sweet but the memory of it, thick as it was and drinkable and even a healthy sip behind roasted chicken and pesto.
When the sun rose again we were in a meadow casting to slow rising trout. The tall grass behind us sparkled with dew. Warblers sang morning songs. Then a car spot and a long paddle down the river that was deep and sandy when it wasn’t flowing over gravel beds. The river made me think of wine.
It was a fine, long day and back at camp we devoured whitefish roe and smoked salmon on cream cheese and crackers. A crisp Duval-Leroy was popped. The cork was lost in the woods. The champagne was notably dry and clean and gone before the small tins of caviar. A Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon finished the job. Out of the cooler it was tight and thin grapefruit. It warmed and bloomed into liquid applestones and yellow butterflies. Our backs ached in a satisfying way and we floated for a moment looking down at ourselves. We were obviously having fun.
Four pounds of Delmonico were thrown on to a white-hot grill. An Altos las Hormigas Malbec filled glasses. Rich and plum-fruit forward the Malbec synchronized with fat bites of steak. A Caprese salad built from homegrown basil and heirloom tomatoes tasted foolishly delicious after all. We slept like royalty on bare mattresses.
We spent the next day touring the Au Sable State Forest through Jack Pine wilderness, ate lunch at a south branch access noisy with drunken midday paddlers, and patted an orphaned fawn named Lucky. A Houghton Lake pizza dinner later we gathered fallen cedar for our last campfire.
2003 Duboeuf Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents made the rounds. Perhaps a bit too subtle for camping wine it nevertheless drank quite easily and offered aromas of purple flowers and cherry skins. The wine made me think of wine. A bottle of Chateau D’Oupia and a fire late into the night finished us off. The D’Oupia added pepper-spice to an assortment of olives and comradeship. Down at the cedar bank our canoes set for the morning and one final adventure. In an upstream pond two loons cried out into the night.
After four hours of easy work I had a burger and chocolate malted at a tiny little charcoal grill in Marinette, WI. Then it was a four hour drive across Michigan’s Upper Peninsula with views of golden dune grass stark against the white frozen sea. Big and brilliantly black ravens loitered around every curve hoping I would hit something they could eat. I finally crossed the bridge above a Coast Guard ice-breaker clearing the passage for early commercial shipping. Then it was dinner, Guinness and four fingers of Irish whiskey at an empty Mackinaw City pub.
Now I’m getting into some gamay. By god. There is little on the nose other than hints of what is to come through in a fabulous sip. What a fine drink, balanced fruit and acidity and a chalky finish. This wine won’t be defined by a voluminous produce list. It is like a single-name pop star voted into my personal hall of fame. Is compulsive drinkability a good wine characteristic? Another fine Miller Squared import.
It doesn’t get much more obscure than Côteaux d’Ancenis. As a matter of record, I pride myself on being a total Loire Valley Wine Geek, and even I hadn’t heard of this appellation when Doug brought the wine back from his last trip. Located in the Loire Atlantique, northeast of Nantes, on the banks of the Loire River, this appellation specializes in reds and rosés made from 100% gamay. With a vine age of approximately 38 years Pierre Guindon has 13 hectares in Côteaux d’Ancenis on hillsides made up of clay, granite and schist. He hand harvests (practically unheard of in the appellation) and vinifies each parcel separately as they each have a different style. He keeps his yields very low and has a planting density of 6500 per hectare to encourage concentration.
On my annual Lake Michigan Circle Tour today I decide to forego the last stretch of toll road and take the North Skokie Highway into Wisconsin from Illinois. Just as I am lamenting the French wine selection at the usual liquid provisions stop in Milwaukee and realizing the urge to pee, I look up from my reflections and see that I’m turning into the entrance of Sam’s Wine & Spirits. What luck.
As if there are brilliantly shiny things twisting in the dazzling light above it, I proceed directly to the rack wealthy with Loire wine. It is there I find a bottle of 2006 Domaine du Fontenay, Côte Roannaise. Made from Gamay grapes grown on the hill of St Sulpice, this wine apparently benefits from contact with granite as well as a lack of yeast or sugar manipulation. It’s purple. The nose is candied cherries on fern. A drink is light-bodied, intense with fruit and a focused acidity. It finishes with a healthy dose of tannin and weightier. A joyous match with medium-rare ribeye. Dressner might have imported it though he didn’t.