GUD BLOG: SINGLE POST
Amer Picon
Cocktail nerds hobbyists, like any nerds hobbyists, tend to get a little obsessive: learning the newest trend, finding the latest ingredient, practicing every technique, and of course, hunting down rare things. Whether it’s an original Star Wars figurine from Kenner or a bottle of rum that’s nearly impossible to get, there’s definitely an appeal to finding and, in the case of cocktails, drinking from the holiest of holy grails.
The French liqueur known as Amer Picon is one of those sorts of things for cocktail lovers. Invented in the 1830s, the original Picon was a stiff drink at nearly 80 proof. According to Wikipedia, at least, that changed in the 1870s, and the version that came to be popular in American cocktails around the turn of the century through Prohibition was closer to 25 or 26% abv. Indeed, you can find bottles up for auction or for sale from the WWII era at 26%. In that form, it came to be used in several classics, most notably Picon Punch, the Brooklyn, and the Liberal. Its unique bitter orange flavor was more or less lost to history when the company that produces it changed the recipe again in the late 20th century, eventually bringing it down to 18% abv.
And oh yeah, one other tiny detail: It’s hasn’t been imported to the United States in a long, long time.
Two weeks ago, fate smiled on me when Jeremy, a long-time reader of what is now the Sugar House’s blog, generously elected to share, among other things, two bottles of Picon. He managed to acquire from overseas Picon Club and Picon Biere, the two contemporary Picon products, both of which are commercially available in France and England.
So I found myself in the middle of a pretty awesome tasting of bitter liqueurs from around the world, and I took some notes:
Suze
Unrelated to the other liqueurs, this was an addition to the tasting notable both for its relative rarity and its unique, gentian-heavy flavor. As I later learned, Suze was originally 32% abv with a very little sugar. The bottling we tried was 15% with 200g of sugar per bottle, so much like the Picon, its recipe has changed quite a bit over time, and it even varies between Switzerland and other European markets. This version has a very distinct flavor: While gentian bitterness is a potent force in the overall taste, there’s an unusual combination of dirty earthiness and a sharp menthol flavor. Most unusual. It’s quite striking all around, starting with its intense yellow color.
Picon Biere
As promised, this is a distinctly orange, distinctly bitter liqueur. I expected it to be a bit sweeter than it was; indeed, it’s a surprisingly bright in terms of flavor. Despite the low alcohol, it still asserts itself appropriately, which is important considering its primary purpose – being added to wheat beer or cheap Euro lager to add flavor and finish. Easy, easy drinking.
Picon Club
Rather than being an addition to beer, the newer product Picon Club is designed for use with cocktails or wines. It’s darker and stronger not in alcohol but in color and flavor. Primarily, there’s a burnt caramel flavor with heavy orange peel, and there’s a sort of fruity coffee undertone. Downright delicious.
Torani Amer (and a homemade Amer Picon replacement)
One of the alleged replacements for Picon has been Torani Amer, an American product bottled at a much higher proof. While the added alcohol has some advantages, this was weakly flavored, thin, boozy, and boringly bitter (one note) compared to the actual Picons. There was practically no orange flavor at all. By comparison, Jeremy’s homemade Amer Picon, which follows a recipe outlined by bartender Jamie Boudreau, was distinctly far more balanced with more fruit flavor. That said, while the homemade replacement had the heft and power that’s allegedly closer to older Picon recipes, the modern day Picons were, I think, the most clearly influenced by orange.
Cio Ciaro
This Italian amaro is often cited among the best possible replacements for Picon commercially available in the United States. Tasted alone, I’ve always found it remarkable how much orange flavor shows through the sugar and bitterness. Tasted next to the Picons, it’s still delicious but is barely tinged with orange. Definitely a great product, and it absolutely works in drinks like a Brooklyn, but it’s not even close to a direct replacement.
My sincere thanks to Jeremy as well as Dave and Chuck from the Sugar House for letting me participate so I could enjoy these liqueurs and share my notes.
2012.05.06 Evan Hansen at 3:48 pm
This entry was posted in GUD Blog and tagged cocktails, liqueur. Bookmark the permalink.
15 Responses to Amer Picon
I used to drink Picon Bière all the time when I lived in France; I kind of forgot all about it! Definitely better than the other common option there, which was putting a lemon or peach (non-alcoholic) syrup in the cheap lager to improve the taste.
i have a sealed bottle of amer picon that seems to be very old. it has for medicinal purposes written across the label.could you steer me in a direction where i can get the age and value of this bottle. thanks
Hi Jim – Auction houses and specialty shops that buy and sell aged spirits are probably your best bet.
The Whiskey Exchange in London is one: http://www.thewhiskyexchange.com/
Here’s another:
http://www.finestandrarest.com/liqueurs.html
I’ve not personally purchased any older bottles of Picon, so I don’t have a great source. But I have to imagine that a place like those above might be able to help and/or would even buy it from you if you wanted to sell it.
Hi Evan,
I have some. 1.0 liter bottles. 21%. The last of what was available in the US about 10-12 years ago.
Steve
I have a one liter bottle with an orange shield-shaped label that says PICON with the word BIERE under it; is that the same as AMER PICON or do I have something different?
Yes, Jon, that is Amer Picon. Probably the most current, slightly sweet recipe bottled at a lower proof. But definitely Amer Picon. That’s the version sold in Europe designed to be mixed in to a beer to liven the beer up a bit.
Evan – thank you very much for the reply! I just spent four days in Paris looking in every wine shop and supermarket for Amer Picon. Not seeing the word ‘Amer’ on any bottle, I gave up and settled for the Picon described above, which itself was not too easy to find. Your reply has made me feel pretty good.
Thanks again. I was worried that this forum was not monitored closely.
Jon Peterson
I have amer picon I found on a construction site. the lady had past away. its 78 proof unopened with the price tag still on it. its 3/4 quarts and says imported from france. anyone know the value of somewhere I can sell it to someone who knows about it
Hi Zachary, I would be interested in purchasing the bottle. I am a liquor importer here in Seattle and have a home collection as well. If you would like to contact me outside of this post, my e-mail is .
For the rest of the readers looking for an amazing French amer, take a look at Bigallet China-China Amer. Bigallet, a small liqueur company near Lyon has been making this stuff since the 1800’s. It is superb – orange, bitter, gentian, anise, etc. – and is just arriving to the U.S. market. I think it’s currently only available here in WA, and Mass. should be very soon.
Bigallet China-China Amer Sounds like what we need around Reno to make our Basque National Cocktail, The Picon Punch. You mentioned it is available up in WA. Where and how do I get it to NV.
Thank You!
Dan
Hi Zachary, if you haven’t sold the bottle you found I’d be very interested in purchasing it from you. Feel free to respond to the email listed. Thanks.
Anyone know if Picon Biere A L’Orange is available anywhere in the United States for purchase by the bottle?
I do, because I have some. Over 10 years old, in 1.0 liter bottles, it is 21%, which should give you an idea as to age. I am interested in parting with 8-10 bottles for the right price. Steve
Pingback: Ben’s 2013 in Review | The Alaskanomicon
Sooner or later, Google will find all new spam methods. In addition, the observing surgeons could transmit their comments to the operating surgeon,
who could read them on the Google Glass monitor.
There are other ways to improve your ranking in Googlemaps, the purpose of
this blog post is not to tell you EVERYTHING Frederick Web Promotions can do to improve your ranking, the
purpose of this particular blog post is to:.