My co-blogger and venerable restaurant reviewer Todd will soon have published a column about Jolly Pumpkin’s new storefront brewpub in Ann Arbor. In anticipation of his moutherwatering wordsmithing, I thought it appropriate to post a few notes about a unique beer being served up at that location.
Brewmaster Ron Jefferies has apparently been trying out some new recipes under assorted pseudo-brands that are as whimsical as his recipes. Among them is cleverly titled Baudelaire Eyo, a saison brewed with hisbiscus, rose, and other herbs and flowers. I’ve read a review or two online where the reviewer’s bottle arrived with its contents flat and uninspired, but I’m pleased to say that mine was quite effervescent, exceptionally well-balanced, and very drinkable. It pours with a dark, amber-ish tone highlighted by pink-ish hues when struck by the window light. Aromatically, it’s aggressively funky but almost sweet, surely a sign of its herbal heritage. Predominantly funky on the palate, the flavor is in lock-step with the nose, showing a bit of sweet, floral nuance in the mid-palate and finishing dry.
Jolly Pumpkin is, as a farmhouse brewery, known for some bottle variation, a notion with which I have no qualms. But if most bottles I had going forward were to drink like this, I’d say Eyo ranks with Bam Biere, Perseguidor, Oro de Calabaza, and Luciernaga as one of the epic classics among the growing number of American farmhouse ales, competitive even with its French and Belgian counterparts. It’s my sincere hope he bottles this magic elixir and gets it on store shelves in the future.
Posted on 2009.11.05 by Evan Hansen at 6:27 pm
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